06 Feb Training Your New Pet
Where to start
Right, so you’ve got your new pet home. They’re adorable. They’re curious. And they’ve just done something that’s made you think “…we need to work on that.”
Welcome to training! Or as first-time pet owners often experience it; a mix of small victories, hilarious failures, and wondering why your puppy knows exactly what “sit” means but chooses chaos instead.
But training isn’t about having a perfectly obedient pet who performs tricks on command (though that’s a nice bonus). It’s about building a bond, establishing communication, and helping your pet understand how to live happily in your home.
Let’s break it down by species, because – spoiler alert – training a puppy, a kitten, and a rabbit are three quite different experiences!
Training your dog: Building the basics
Start here (the first two weeks)
The golden rule is to make it worth their while. When your dog does something you like, immediately follow it with something they love – a treat, a toy, enthusiastic praise. They’ll quickly work out that good things happen when they do what you’re asking!
House training
Take your puppy outside frequently (after meals, naps, play, and first thing in the morning). The moment they go in the right spot, make a fuss of them. Yes, accidents will happen – just clean up and carry on. Getting cross won’t help them understand; it’ll just make them anxious.
Their name
Practice saying their name in a cheerful voice. The second they look at you, treat. You’re building a connection: “That sound means something good if I pay attention.”
Safe space
Whether it’s a crate or a bed, give them a spot that’s just theirs. Make it cosy, feed them there occasionally, and never use it as punishment.
The next stage (weeks 2-8)
- Sit: Hold a treat above their nose, move it back. Their bottom goes down naturally. Say “sit,” reward, repeat.
- Come: In a safe space, say their name and “come” in an excited voice. Reward heavily. Non-negotiable for safety.
- Lead walking: Start indoors. Reward them for walking beside you. This takes time.
Keep sessions productive
- Start somewhere quiet where they can focus
- Five to ten minutes is plenty – stop before they get bored
- Every dog learns at their own pace, so don’t compare
- Finish on something they’ve already nailed so they end feeling successful
- Make it enjoyable for both of you – this should strengthen your bond, not strain it
The teenage phase (months 3-6)
Around three to six months, your furbaby might suddenly become “selectively deaf.” They absolutely know what you’re asking – they’re just working out whether the rules really apply. Keep going. Stay patient. Keep sessions short and upbeat.
When to get help
Struggling with excessive anxiety, or behaviour that’s getting worse rather than better? A qualified animal behaviourist can give you specialist support. Puppy training classes are also excellent for both basic obedience and social skills.
For comprehensive dog training guidance, visit the RSPCA’s training resources.
Training your cat: Yes, really!
Cats absolutely can learn – they’re just more discerning about when they choose to demonstrate it!
Start by working out what really motivates your individual cat. Most cats respond best to food rewards – the tastier, the better. Some might also value a favourite toy or a particularly good scratching session. Verbal praise alone is generally less effective than with dogs.
Start here
Litter training
Most kittens instinctively use a litter tray. Place them in it after meals and naps. Keep it clean and in a quiet spot.
Scratching posts
You can’t stop scratching; it’s instinct. Redirect it. Place posts near their favourite spots and where they’re already scratching. Reward them when they use it.
Redirect; don’t punish
Shouting “no” doesn’t work. Make unwanted spots less appealing (double-sided tape on counters) and give them better alternatives.
Training basics
Break down whatever you’re teaching into tiny steps. Want them to go into their carrier? First, just reward them for looking at it. Then for taking a step toward it. Then for sniffing it. Then for putting one paw in. Build up slowly at their pace, not yours.
Timing matters
The reward needs to come immediately after the behaviour – within a second or two if possible. Any longer and your cat won’t connect the dots between what they did and why something good happened.
Why punishment doesn’t work
Shouting at or physically punishing a cat achieves nothing except damaging your relationship. They won’t understand why you’re upset; they’ll just learn to feel anxious around you. The behaviour you don’t like will probably continue or even get worse.
Instead, figure out why they’re doing it. Cat scratching furniture? They need more appropriate scratching options. Jumping on kitchen counters? They want height – give them a cat tree or shelves they’re allowed on. Address the underlying need rather than the surface behaviour.
Common mistakes
Expecting them to behave like dogs, using punishment, or not giving them enough mental stimulation.
For detailed cat training techniques, visit Battersea’s cat training guide.
Training your rabbit: The underrated student
Rabbits are clever, curious, and capable of learning their names, coming when called, and even doing tricks. They just need patience and the right approach.
Because rabbits are naturally prey animals, sudden movements or being grabbed can trigger their instinct to flee. Early on, your rabbit might be quite shy or nervous around you. Sit quietly at floor level and let them approach you rather than chasing or cornering them. Make sure their home has hiding spots where they can retreat when they need to feel secure.
Start here
Litter training
Watch where your rabbit naturally chooses to toilet, then place a litter tray in that spot. Use paper-based litter with some hay on top. Add some of your rabbits’ poo and urine-soaked bedding to the litter tray to show them this is the right place. Rabbits like to eat and poo at the same time, so you can also put fresh hay in or near the tray. And be patient!
Building trust through handling
Rather than picking them up frequently (which many rabbits find stressful), start by sitting on the floor and letting them come to you. Offer small treats. Stroke them gently when they’re relaxed. Handle them regularly but briefly.
Teaching specific behaviours
One effective method is clicker training. The clicker makes a distinctive sound that you pair with treats, so your rabbit learns: Click = something good is about to happen.
Start by clicking, then immediately offering a small treat. Do this repeatedly until your rabbit starts to anticipate the treat when they hear the click. Now you can use it to mark the exact moment they do what you want – come toward you, go into their hutch, anything else you’re teaching them.
When introducing a verbal cue like “come” or their name, be prepared to repeat it many, many times in different situations and locations. We’re talking 40 to 60 repetitions before it really sticks.
Keeping them engaged
Rabbits need regular play and enrichment to stay happy. Try setting up simple obstacle courses with cardboard boxes for them to hop over. Use fresh herbs like parsley to encourage them to follow you. Watch for the “binky” – that adorable jump-and-twist move rabbits do when they’re happy.
For more on rabbit behaviour and training, visit the Rabbit Awareness Action Group.
Pet training isn’t linear
Of course, there will be moments that test you: 3am zoomies, chewed furniture, selective deafness, and “I know what you want but I’m choosing to ignore you.”
Think of these as signs you have a pet with personality! And remember:
- Consistency is everything
- Positive reinforcement works
- Keep training short and sweet
- Be patient
- Some days they’ll nail it… that’s progress.
If behaviour feels unmanageable or you’re worried, talk to your vet or a qualified trainer or behaviourist.
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